Adventures in Hong Kong

This post will finally wrap up my Southeast Asia travels.  From Siem Reap, I transferred flights in Bangkok and then hopped on another plane to Hong Kong, where I met up with Emily and coincidentally 6 other Fulbright friends.  I saw one of them at Incheon Airport and upon exchanging travel itineraries, we realized that we'd be in Hong Kong at the same time.  Once I touched down in Hong Kong, I was greeted with warm, enveloping hugs from my long-lost friends and breezy, temperate 60 degree weather - a much needed change from the brutal 90 degree heat.  It was late afternoon by the time I arrived, so I quickly dropped off my bag and then we all headed to dinner around the bustling Central Station area.

We settled upon an authentic-looking, quasi-fancy Chinese place to eat.  There were so many options on the menu that it was a little overwhelming.  Eventually, we all settled on some entrees and everything tasted quite delicious.  But little did I know that I would acquire a debilitating stomach bug that would have me running to the bathroom for almost 2 weeks.  Maybe I had it coming - I had gone ten days in Southeast Asia with virtually no stomach problems and I suppose that I was overdue for an unpleasant encounter.  Looking back, I can probably trace my illness back to that restaurant.  The waitress misunderstood our request for water bottles and quickly refilled our glasses with warm tap water before we could object.  Not the best way to start the visit, but we didn't let that stop us from experiencing the new terrain.

After dinner, we wanted to walk off our food babies so we headed to the Central Mid-level Escalators, the longest outdoor escalator system in the world.  Being that the terrain of Hong Kong Island is super hilly and steep, the escalators provide a convenient and unique commute between the Western and Central Districts.  Covering a half mile in total distance, the escalators literally seem to go on forever.  Tons of restaurants, bars, and shops line the route, making it fun to peer down and people watch from above.

The following day, Emily had to wake up bright and early to take the MCATs (they're not offered in Korea, so she made a vacation out of it).  The rest of us slept in and then met up for brunch.  We were all craving dim sum, so we wandered around asking random strangers where to find a dim sum restaurant.  I'm not sure how we did it, but we eventually ended up at this huge dim sum place in a shopping complex.  Being that we were the only foreigners there, I think we found a pretty authentic place. 

Of course, that meant that no one there spoke English and their menu was only written in Cantonese.  Relying on pictures and pointing to what people at adjacent tables were eating, we somehow managed to order a ton of delicious food.  It was an interesting experience, to say the least.  There were a couple adventurous types at our table who decided to try pork knuckle.  When it finally came out, it reeked of some rancid, putrid smell and was coated in the most unappetizing layer of, what can only be described as, blubber.  I'm amazed that they actually finished the whole thing.  Props to the rest of us for not puking at the mere sight and smell of it.

After our meal, we caught back up with Emily who had just finished her five hour exam.  The girl's a trooper.  Then we strolled along to the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens.  My time in Hong Kong was a lot more laid-back and spontaneous than my other trips.  In Malaysia, Thailand, and Cambodia, there was a lot of stuff that we had wanted to see and do, so our schedule was tightly packed and planned to the hour.  However, in Hong Kong, there wasn't that same sense of urgency, so we just enjoyed each others' company and wandered around.

There are over 1000 species of plants and several animal exhibits on display at the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens.  It's certainly not very large or particularly impressive, but it was a nice way to spend the afternoon.  More than 125 years old, this nature reserve stands in direct contrast to the hundreds of towering commercial buildings that loom in the downtown area.  Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated areas in the world.  With that statistic comes a highly developed transportation network with public transport traveling rate exceeding 90 percent, the highest in the world, and the recognition of having 7650 skyscrapers, the most in the world.  Hong Kong seems to be a place that's constantly breaking world records.

After the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, our big group split up and went separate ways.  I, as expected, joined the shopping subgroup and we took the subway over to the Kowloon peninsula on the other side of the Victoria Harbor.  There, we hit up Granville Road, a trendy, fun shopping area lined with a ton of local designers and cheap clothing boutiques.  I was a little depressed to see the price tags, not because they were particularly expensive, by any means.  But just because in comparison to Southeast Asia, I wasn't used to paying "real" prices (comparable to Korea or America) again.  Nonetheless, I ended up with a new dress, blouse, and pair of flats. 

After a while, we started heading back towards the harbor and found a spot to watch A Symphony of Lights, a multicolored neon light show that occurs daily at 8:00pm for ten minutes.  In keeping with the world record theme, A Symphony of Lights is the World's Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show according to the Guinness Book of World Records. 

A Symphony of Lights certainly lives up to this title.  This spectacular multimedia show combines lights, music, and narration, while employing over 40 key waterfront buildings.  The facades of skyscrapers are decked out in lights that, at the flick of a switch, glow in a myriad of colors that mimic Hong Kong’s colorful and bustling atmosphere.  The choreographed lights and lasers were a little tacky and anti-climatic, but it was worth checking out for Hong Kong's incredible skyline.

After the light show, we decided to check out Hong Kong's renowned nightlife.  Apparently, the only place worth visiting is Lan Kwai Fong, a buzzing centre of bars, clubs, and Western-style restaurants.  I was amazed by how many foreigners there were in this little square of cobblestone streets; perhaps more than I've seen anywhere else in Asia, thus far.  Somehow, we ended up dancing barefoot in the street and having the time of our lives.  At one point, a super flamboyant bartender led the crowd in choreographed dance movements.  It was a colorful memory that I will surely never forget.

The next day, we woke up and once again, had dim sum for brunch.  This time, instead of wandering around, we consulted the Lonely Planet travel guide and headed straight to Maxim's Palace City located in the City Hall building.  The dim sum there may not be the best or the cheapest, but you have to go for the atmosphere and history.  Dining at this restaurant was an amazing experience, one that you must do if you ever visit Hong Kong.

This is old-school dim sum establishment, where all the favorites are pushed around in heated carts, or clear glass trolleys, so that you can see what everything looks like before you order.  There was a wide variety of dishes and we made it a point to try one of almost everything.  Everything was delicious, especially the barbecue pork buns and dumplings.  The decor of this restaurant was surreal with beautiful, sparking chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and a view overlooking the harbor.

After brunch, we waddled, quite literally, over to a nearby bus stop and took the bus up to Victoria Peak.  The Peak, as it's known to locals, is Hong Kong's most popular tourist attraction.  Seven million people visit every year and take advantage of the two giant shopping centres, Peak Galleria and Peak Tower.  Moreover, Peak Tower boasts the largest 360 degree viewing platform: The Sky Terrace 428.

Perched 428 metres above sea level, the Sky Terrace 428 offers spectacular panoramic views of the vibrant city.  It's amazing to see the Hong Kong skyline from up there.  The view overlooking Central, Victoria Harbor, and surrounding islands was absolutely stunning.  I took a ton of photos up there.  Of course, Emily and I also managed to push all the lovey couples out of the way and snap a photo in front of the oversized heart.

After that, we had a leisurely afternoon.  We drank overpriced caffeinated beverages and people watched.  Then we did a little more shopping around the Central area.  In the evening, we just walked around and ate delicious Vietnamese food.  It was a great, relaxing way to spend my last full day of traveling.

The next morning, I woke up and headed to the airport for my final flight home.  By chance, I was chosen to be upgraded to Premiere Class on Korean Air.  It was an awesome, once in a lifetime experience.  I sat in a reclining egg bed thing, which was controlled by a remote control with dozens of nifty buttons.  I spent the first 20 minutes aboard, just trying to figure out what all the buttons do.  During the flight, I was offered  special slippers to wear around the cabin, many kinds of fresh-squeezed juices, and a wide selection of international newspapers and magazines.  Surrounded by business men in expensive suits, I felt a little out of place, but I definitely enjoyed the pampering experience.

On a side note, I learned during my time traveling around Asia that I am extremely ambiguous looking, in terms of my nationality.  There is no doubt that I am of Asian decent, but no matter where I go, locals will assume that I am "one of them."  In Korea, I am frequently mistaken for Chinese or Japanese, even before I open my mouth and prove my foreignness that way.  In Malaysia, locals speak to me in Malay; in Thailand, I am greeted in Thai; the same applies in both Cambodia and Hong Kong.  I don't know whether to take it as a compliment or not.  But it's interesting to know that, unlike when I was studying abroad in Europe, I can easily fit in wherever I go in Asia.  ^_~

By the time I returned back to Korea, my backpack and heart felt twice as full.  This two-week trek around Southeast Asia surpassed my expectations.  It was so amazing to explore a part of the world that I had never seen before.  What an incredible opportunity I've been given.  Not only am I spending my year in my motherland, learning the language, soaking in the culture, and making a difference at my school; I also get 2 full months of paid vacation to see and experience the world.  I suppose that's what being a cultural ambassador is all about.  I am so lucky to be living this incredible life.  Thanks for coming on this journey with me.

Adventures in Cambodia

After Bangkok, we flew to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia.  Immediately upon arrival, we had to obtain tourist visas.  Hoping to avoid currency exchange fees, I had planned on paying for the visa with a credit card.  But I soon learned that only cash was accepted so made a pit-stop at the nearest ATM machine.  Much to my surprise, I discovered that ATMs in Cambodia only dispense cash in American dollars.  Being that Cambodian money is so weak (about 4000 Cambodian riel = 1 US dollar), their government chose to adopt American dollars as a means to spur their economy.  After nearly 7 months of being abroad, it was strange to be using dollars again. 

Twenty minutes and twenty dollars later, the immigration office stapled the visa into my passport and I was ready to go.  I gotta admit, the full-page Cambodian visa looks pretty awesome.  Perhaps, I should choose my next travel destination based on which country will leave the largest and most impressive marking in my passport.  Our main objective for visiting Cambodia was to see the world-famous Angkor Wat complex, which is located outside the city of Siem Reap.  However, being that the tickets to Phnom Penh were half the price, we opted to first fly to the capital city and then take a mini-bus to Siem Reap first thing in the morning.

What a mistake this turned out to be...  Since this trip coincided with Lunar New Year, all the mini buses were sold out and it seemed like the only other option was to spend a ton of money and hire a private cab to take us there.  It was a really stressful experience.  Fortunately, we met a group of 6 Canadians (who coincidentally also teach English in Korea) and decided to split a van with them the next day.  That evening, we walked around a bit and got Mexican/Khmer food for dinner, which was surprisingly delicious and comforting.  Admittedly we didn't see much of Phnom Penh, but what I did see was quite dirty and underdeveloped.  It was, by far, the least pleasant city that I visited during my travels.

The next day, we woke up at the crack of dawn and embarked upon a 5 hour journey to Siem Reap.  That, too, was an unpleasant experience.  It was unbearably hot and the unpaved, dirt roads made for a super bumpy ride.  I was so relieved when we finally arrived in downtown Siem Reap.  From there we took a tuk-tuk to our hostel, Siem Reap Rooms Guesthouse, which is worth noting for its incredible hospitality and great facilities.  The hostel owner, Melissa greeted us with cold glasses of iced tea and helped us plan our sightseeing itinerary for Angkor Wat.  Since we arrived in the early afternoon, she suggested that we choose one temple to catch at sunset, the most beautiful time of day, and save the rest for the following day.  With that advice, we took a nap and awoke just in time for our tuk-tuk driver to take us to Pre Rup.

Built as the state temple for Khmer king Rajendravarman, Pre Rup is a temple mountain comprised of brick, laterite, and sandstone.  Its name, meaning "turn the body," reflects the common belief that funeral services were conducted here, with the ashes of the body being ritually rotated as the service progressed.  It is clear to see why tourists flock to this temple during sunrise and sunset hours.  As the sun moves parallel to the horizon, it glows with a beautiful, uncanny shade of amber.  After a stressful day, it was so relaxing to just sit there and watch the beauty of nature in action.

After the sun went down, we walked around downtown Siem Reap, which is a quaint city with tons of restaurants, stores, and night markets.  Everything in the city is within walking distance, so it's fun to just take a stroll after dinner to digest.  Open until very late, the night markets are particularly worth checking out.  Vendors there sell everything from handcrafted goods to original artwork to souvenirs.  In addition, there are massage places everywhere you turn.  For a mere 2 dollars, one can get a half-hour foot or back massage.  Being that I am very ticklish, I "splurged" and opted for a 3 dollar manicure instead.

The next morning, we hired a tuk-tuk driver for the day.  For a flat rate of 25 dollars, he drove us to all the touristy sites and patiently waited in the parking lot for us to return, before heading to the next location.  Talk about great service.  First stop of the day was Banteay Srei, a 10th Century temple located 37 kilometers north of the actual Angkor archeological park.  Loosely translating to "citadel of the women," the name of this temple likely refers the walls which are densely covered with some of the most beautiful, delicate carvings of any Angkorian temple.  While Banteay Srei was a bit out of the way, it was well worth the extra effort to see these wonderfully preserved ruins.

Near Banteay Srei, there was a little village where locals played music and sold various goods.  We steered away from the tacky souvenirs, but stopped to buy a fresh coconut from a young girl and her grandmother.  All I could think was - wow, this girl should be in school right now.  Nonetheless, the coconut was refreshing and not too sweet.

Then we got back in our tuk-tuk and headed to Ta Prohm, also known as the Tomb Raider temple, since it served as a filming location for the movie.  Built in the Bayon style in the late 12th and early 13th centuries, it was originally founded as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university.  This sprawling monastic complex is very unique, in that there are massive fig and silk-cotton trees growing out of the towers and ruins.  Only partially cleared of jungle overgrowth, Ta Prohm is unlike any temple that I've ever seen before.

Unlike most Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm has been left in largely the same condition it was found and hasn't gone under extensive restoration.  As you walk through the dark corridors and shaded grounds, a sense of mystique fills the air.  It really does feel like you're lost in a jungle and stumbled across some ancient ruins.  As you can see, I had a great time posing with all the coiling and shadowy trees.

Next, we stopped by Ta Keo, a temple mountain that was the first of its kind to be built entirely out of sandstone.  Known in its time as the "mountain with golden peaks," this temple was erected as the state temple of Jayavarman V, son of Rajendravarman, who had built Pre Rup.  Ta Keo resembles Pre Rup in terms of architectural style, artistry, and overall feel.  Like Pre Rup, it is a five-tier pyramid with steep, overlapping steps.  It took some effort to climb to the top, but once we got there, the view was quite lovely.

After that, we headed to Angkor Thom, the 3x2 kilometer walled and moated royal city, located in the center of the Angkor archeological complex.  After Jayavarman VII recaptured the Angkorian capital from the Cham invaders in 1181, he began a massive building campaign across the empire, constructing Angkor Thom as his new capital city.  He began with existing structures like Baphuon and Phimeanakas and built a grand enclosed city around them, later adding an outer wall, moat, and other temples.

Baphuon is a three-tiered temple mountain that was built as the state temple of Udayadityavarman II and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.  In the late 15th century, Baphuon was converted to a Buddhist temple.  Unfortunately, by the 20th century, large portions of this temple had collapsed and restoration efforts proved to be problematic.  In April 2011, after 51 years, archeologists finally finished the restoration of the temple and it was once again opened up for visitor access.  I'm glad we got a chance to check it out.

Next, we walked over to Bayon, the well-known and richly decorated temple located at the heart of Angkor Thom.  It was built in the late 12th century or early 13th century as the official state temple of the Mahayana Buddhist, King Jayavarman VII.  If you can only see 2 temples in Cambodia, Bayon and Angkor Wat should be the ones.  Bayon's most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and huge stone faces on towers that jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak.  There are 37 standing towers and 216 gigantic faces in total!

The giant stone faces of Bayon have become one of the most recognizable images connected to the Angkor complex.  Who the faces represent is still a matter of debate.  Some believe that they may be Loksvara, Mahayana Buddhism's compassionate Bodhisattva, or perhaps a combination of Buddha and Jayavarman VII, himself.  Regardless of which answer is correct, I was captivated by magnificence and incredible detail of these carvings.  Bayon has been described as "the most striking expression of the baroque style" of Khmer architecture, as contrasted with the classical style of Angkor Wat - the final destination on our tour.

Without further ado, we finally arrived at Angkor Wat, the temple complex built by King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century as his state temple and capital city.  As the best-preserved temple at the site, it is the only one to have remained a significant religious centre since its foundation - first Hindu, dedicated to the god Vishnu, then Buddhist.  The temple has become a symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its national flag, and it is the country's prime attraction for visitors.  As a massive three-tiered pyramid crowned by five lotus-like towers, Angkor Wat is visually, architecturally and artistically breathtaking in every way.

Everything about Angkor Wat is impressive.  The temple, itself, is 1 square kilometer in total and consists of three levels surmounted by a central tower.  In addition, it is surrounded by a moat and an exterior wall measuring 1300 meters x 1500 meters. The walls of the temple are covered inside and out with bas-reliefs and aspara carvings. 

Once we got to the central tower, we waited on a long line and passed a clothing check to climb to the very top.  Being that highest level of Angkor Wat holds an incredible amount of religious significance, the dress code of visitors is strictly monitored.  Shoulders must be covered and bottoms must be knee-length or longer - no exceptions.  I was wearing what I thought was a modest dress but just to be safe, I pulled it wayyyy down to ensure that it covered my knee caps.  There was no way that I was going to miss out on this opportunity.  While it was very crowded, the view from the top was spectacular and well worth the wait.

Despite the enormous size of Angkor Wat, there's a sense of harmony and balance that pervades the temple complex.  So much so that its design has been compared to the architecture of ancient Greece and Rome.  But neither the Colosseum in Rome nor the Acropolis in Athens has friendly monkeys running around, posing for pictures.  I'm so glad that I got the chance to visit this incredible historical site.

After a long day of sightseeing, I was exhausted and my feet were aching.  Fortunately, downtown Siem Reap has a ton of massage places, including special fish massage joints.  Now what does this entail, you ask?  Fish massages refer to large tanks, where visitors dip their feet into the water and have their dead skin eaten by the hundreds of little guppies that reside there.  My feet are ridiculously ticklish but we had to give it a try.  For a whopping 2 dollar fee, we got 20 minutes in the fish tank and received a free beverage of our choice: soda, beer, or wine.  I was squealing the whole time and causing quite a scene.  But I gotta say, it really worked and by the end of the session, my feet were as soft as a baby's bottom.

Seeing Angkor Wat was certainly on my bucket list and I'm really lucky that I got to cross it off while spending the year living and working in Korea.  I apologize that this post was so long, but I'm really trying to convince my readers to travel to this region of the world.  Angkor Wat, in particular, is one destination that everyone ought to see in their lifetime.  Stay tuned for my next post about Hong Kong, the last stop on my epic journey in Southeast Asia.