Thursday, August 25, 2011

Meet My Host Family!

One of the unique perks about the Fulbright Korea program is the fact that grantees stay with Korean homestays.  For me, this was definitely one of main selling points that led me to apply last October.  What better way to learn about Korean culture firsthand and practice my rudimentary language skills?  But it also was one of the things that I was most worried about.  One's living arrangements can truly make or break one's grant year.  The night before Departure Day, we received a little slip of paper with brief information about our homestays.  I was absolutely thrilled when I learned that there were 3 host children in my family and their apartment was located smack dab in the middle of downtown Daejeon.

Once I arrived at their apartment, I was greeted with warm, friendly smiles and another bouquet of flowers.  I was immediately taken aback by how good their English was.  This was surely something I wasn't expecting, as I heard from many former Fulbrights that their host parents' spoke little to no English.  I later found out that my host family lived in New Zealand from 2004-2006, which explains their high English level, as well as the random koala bear trinkets scattered around the house.  My host parents are very similar in age to my parents back home.  They are such kind and generous people.  Here's a photo of me with my host mother.  I regret that I don't have a photo of my host dad yet.  He's rarely home and when he is, it's usually past my bedtime.  But I will try to change that soon.

My host mother used to work as an art and English elementary school teacher.  But she quit her job two years ago to be a full-time housewife.  It is still unclear what exactly my host father does for a living.  According to Google Translate, he does something with Korean transportation and highways.  Additional tidbits of information has led me to believe that he's a civil engineer who specifically designs highways.  But I can't be sure.  All I know is that he's always working and seems to provide a cushy lifestyle for his family.  My host dad's English is probably the poorest of the bunch.  But he always lights up when he sees me playing card games with his children and making them laugh.  Oh and did I mention that my host family has the same last name as me?!  I found it quite amusing.  But then again, the five most common Korean surnames probably account for 90% of the population.

My host mother is a superhero of sorts.  She has three-hour guitar lessons twice a week, dance lessons twice a week, and wakes up at 5am to swim every day.  She also is a former Daejeon swimming champion, an epic gardener, and enjoys golfing in her spare time.  Most impressive is the fact that she has won awards for her cooking.  I mean seriously, how could this get any better?!  Her cooking is super duper delicicious.  I'll prob gain 30 lbs this upcoming year at the rate im going.  So far, she has cooked me Korean, Chinese, and Western food, and we have yet to repeat a meal or side-dish twice.  Yea, I'm living the good life here in Daejeon.  Here's another beautiful photo of us.  I showed my host family how to take distorted photos on my laptop using Photo Booth.  They (and I) thought it was the most hilarious thing.

My host siblings are very sweet to me.  The eldest daughter, named 지은 (Jee-eun), is a first-year college student at a local university in Daejeon.  She lives at home and is studying to become an English teacher, so it's no surprise that her English level is very high.  She helps her mother a lot around the house by cooking and cleaning.  She is usually the one that I go to when I have questions about Korean words, weekend plans, or what I'm eating.  She's always patient with me and in return, she asks me lots of questions about American pop culture and English idioms.  I hope that we'll become close and she'll introduce me to her Korean friends.  She and her younger sister look so much alike.  It's only recently that I've been able to tell them apart.

The second daughter, named 수진 (Soo-Jeen), is a first-year student at my high school.  I'll even be teaching her this year!  She's probably the most sociable and friendly one of the bunch.  That poor girl is at school until nearly 11pm every night but whenever I see her, she keeps me company and asks me about my day.  She has been such a big help to me at school.  She deciphers my teaching schedule, helps me find my classrooms, and introduces me to other teachers.  I don't know what I'd do without her.  One day, she hopes to be a wedding dress designer or event planner for weddings.  Today, we exchanged fashion magazines from our respective countries.  Perhaps I can figure out a way to stream "Say Yes to the Dress" on my laptop for further bonding purposes.

My youngest host sibling is a boy named 준수 (Joon-Soo).  But he commonly goes by his English name: Daniel, which has proven rather confusing for everyone, myself included.  I keep thinking that my host mother is calling my name, when she's really trying to get her son's attention.  He's in his first year of middle school.  He's a little shy and reserved but I'm trying to get through to him.  On my second day here, we bonded over baseball and spent the afternoon watching a ball game on TV.  Korean baseball is actually quite hilarious because the players make so many silly errors.  Like every boy his age, he can usually be found in front of the computer playing video games.

Here's a couple more pictures that we took together using Photo Booth.  This activity kept the kids amused for over an hour.  Now only if it'd be that easy to keep my students engaged and entertained.
 
 

On Sunday, the host family (minus dad) surprised me by taking me to the nearby amusement park, Kumdori Land.  It only took a 15 minute drive to get there.  On the way, Daniel asked me if I had ever heard of Kingda Ka, which he explained is in America and the tallest roller-coaster in the world.  He was so excited when I informed him that I had not only heard of it, but ridden it multiple times, since it's only 40 minutes from my home.  As soon as I arrived, a wave of nostalgia swept over me and I felt like I was a child again.  Here are photos of the entrance way and a normal photo of me with my host siblings.  Can you tell who the foreigner is?!

I can't even begin to express how fun the day was.  We giddily hopped on every ride, usually more than once, and spent the afternoon laughing, eating ice cream, and bonding.  The host kids kept apologizing for the "really long" 10 minute lines.  I assured them that it was perfectly fine and that in America, those lines would be at least five times as long!  We especially enjoyed the roller-coaster and swinging pendulum ride.  Below are some photos of our trip.  Pay special attention to the intense bumper cars action and smart Daniel, who whipped out an umbrella during the log-flume ride!

Recently, I discovered that there were three families vying for the chance to host me.  Since they were equally qualified, this decision was settled by an all-out rock, paper, scissors competition between the students.  I definitely need to thank 수진 and her impeccable r, p, s skills for hooking me up with a fantastic homestay.  It's only been few days since I've met my host family.  But I can say, with reasonable certainty, that I am going to be very happy here.  Yesterday, I told my host mother that I felt so lucky to be living with such a wonderful family.  I nearly lost it when she grabbed my hand and responded, "No, Danielle. We are the lucky ones."

Monday, August 22, 2011

You Say Goodbye and I Say Hello

Prior to Seoul Weekend, I signed up for the Talent Show Committee.  Upon return to Goesan, it was crazy last minute planning to get it all together.  Specifically, I was responsible for making the programs and helping with the Superlative Awards.  After much brainstorming and collaboration with our peers, we were able to come up with an inside joke and unique award for every single person.  The theme of the Talent Show was "Jungwon Shore," which, as a Jersey native, I thoroughly appreciated.  It was an entertaining evening and I was so impressed by the caliber of vocal, dance, musical, and poetic performances.  Below are pictures of the fabulous program, Snooki supervising the kimchi eating contest, and me, tapping my little heart away.

On Wednesday, the renewees (Fulbrights who decided to extend their contract for another year) came for a day of bonding and fun activities.  The teams were divided according to placement cities or provinces.  Then we created costumes, came up with a team cheer, and engaged in an afternoon of friendly competition.  My team, called the Daejeon Divas, truly lived up our name.  I'm pretty sure that we came in last place for nearly every event.  But on the bright side, we'll be spending the year in an amazing city - a consolation prize that I can surely settle for. :)  It was great to have all of us (6 renewees and 5 newbies) together for the first time.  I have no doubt that it's going to be a memorable year!
The Daejeon Divas!

Thursday was an emotional roller-coaster.  This day marked the official end of Orientation and the start of our grant year.  Affectionately known as Departure Day (D-Day), this was a milestone that I was both looking forward to and dreading.  At the crack of dawn, I woke up to finish packing, check out of the dorm room, and assemble with my peers for some tearful goodbyes.  For the rest of the morning, we reminisced about our adventures and took a lot of photos.

It's hard to believe that I've only known these people for 2 months.  But we've been through so much together: flying around the world, adapting to a foreign culture, struggling to learn a difficult language, and embracing new experiences.  I remained composed until the Korean RAs addressed our class, expressing deep thanks for our friendships and stating that they will never forget us.  At that moment, the Ice Queen started to melt, in the form of a solitary tear that slowly danced down her cheek.  But we had little time to waste.  We quickly freshened up and headed upstairs, where our school administrators were anxiously awaiting.

At the ceremony, we stood in line by province and stepped forward one-by-one to bow to our principal and co-teacher.  Occasionally, a teacher would run up and present a huge bouquet of flowers when their Fulbright's name was called.  When it was my turn, a lovely lady came bolting at me with an basket of wild flowers and fruit.  It was so adorable; I couldn't stop smiling.  After the ceremony, I ate lunch with my vice- principal and co-teacher.  Even though there was a language barrier, my vice-principal lit up when I told him to "Enjoy his meal" and assured him that "I will eat well."

My co-teacher and I got along immediately and began chatting about shopping, K-pop singers, and politics.  I even bonded with the head of Daejeon's Metropolitan Office of Education over our caffeine addictions.  After lunch, we grabbed my gigantic suitcases and got on a charter bus with all the other Daejeonites.  I talked to my co-teacher for most of the ride and then dozed off near the end.  Upon awaking, I looked out the window and saw huge skycrapers towering over me.  It was then that realized how far I was from the quaint surburbs of Jersey or the humble fields of Goesan.  Then, my co-teacher drove me to my homestay family's apartment.  As soon as I walked in, I saw this thoughtful message and immediately felt at home.

My homestay is located in the heart of downtown Daejeon, only a few blocks from a subway stop and a 5 minute walk from City Hall.  My family consists of a father, mother, 2 older daughters, and a son.  Having lived in New Zealand from 2004-2006, my host family's English is remarkably good.  The apartment is quite spacious with hard-wood floors.  There are 4 bedrooms: mine, my host parents', my host sisters, and a little office room with a blow-up air mattress that my host brother has been relegated to.  I'm convinced that they forced him to give up his bedroom for me... Poor thing!  My favorite part of the apartment is the outdoor balcony area that my host mother converted into a little garden.  Here are photos of my gorgeous bedroom.  My host sisters later admitted that my host mother bought all new furniture and bedding in honor of my arrival.  So sweet!

On Saturday, my host sisters gave me the grand tour of the city.  We started at City Hall and took the elevator up to the top floor.  From there, I had an aerial view of the entire city, including the science research district and nearby mountains.  I've always lived close to a big city but never actually in one.  So it was certainly exciting to see vast shopping centers and bustling crowds in every direction.  From there, we walked over to the Galleria, one of those super swanky department stores and made the all-important first visit to Daejeon Dunsan Girls' High School.  I was immediately struck by its overwhelming size and began imagining what the school must look like when there's 1800 screaming girls running around.

After that, we wandered around downtown for a few hours.  I was delighted to see some my favorite clothing stores, like Zara and Mango; caffeination stations, like Starbs, the Coffee Bean, and Dunkin'; and Western food chains, like Pizza Hut, Krispy Kreme, and Baskin-Robbins.  Now I can see why Daejeon boasts the reputation of being the most comfortable place to live in Korea.  For dinner, my host sisters brought me to a Korean barbeque restaurant, where we gorged ourselves on samgyupsal (pork belly) and various other delicious noms. 

In conclusion, Daejeon is amazing, I really lucked out with my fantastic homestay, and I can't wait to get the grant year going.  Next time, I'll introduce you to my homestay family!  Hope everyone back home is doing well.  Miss you all! 

Saturday, August 20, 2011

The Heart and Seoul of Korea

For our final weekend together, we headed to Seoul for a celebration of sorts: a celebration in honor of  completing Orientation, our newly acquired friendships, and the a of adventures to come.  On Friday, July 12th, we woke-up at the crack of dawn, stumbled onto a bus, and left Goesan by 5:00am.  Two hours later, we arrived at our hotel in the Mapo-gu district of Seoul and dropped off our luggage.  From there, we hopped on a different bus and began driving to the actual border between South and North Korea - The Demilitarized Zone (An ironic name for possibly the most militarized place in the world).

Along the way, a tour guide bombarded us with facts about Korean history and we stopped at several lesser known war memorials.  Due to the obscenely early morning start, many of us (myself included) were dozing off and couldn't fully appreciate the historical and cultural importance of these sites.  But we found our own source of amusement in taking funny photos and perked up once we arrived at a bulgogi restaurant for lunch.

Following lunch, we arrived at the UN Joint Security Area (JSA), where were briefed about the DMZ and subjected to an incredibly thorough security check.  After being informed about how we should dress, behave, gesture, and focus our vision, we eventually received our passes to enter the DMZ.  At that point, we left behind all of our belongings and boarded another bus that would transport us to the actual line of demarcation.  For the entirety of the bus ride, I felt an immense amount of tension.  The tour guide cautiously warned us that the fields surrounding the road were filled with live land mines and guarded by snipers stationed at every angle.

Three kilometers later, we arrived at the United Nations JSA Headquarters, perhaps the most dangerous place on earth.  There, we had an open view of the mere 2 kilometers that separate a once united country.  Guarded heavily by soldiers from both sides, the blue buildings in the middle are neutral spaces where South and North Korean officials can discuss diplomatic issues (in an ideal world).  Here are some photos of my UN pass, the DMZ, and an American soldier (of Korean descent) who serves as a security guard for tour groups.


In addition, we went to the site where the train between South and North Korea was discontinued and saw hopeful messages for reunification.  I found it rather disheartening that alongside these peace words was a barbed wire fence, serving an ominous reminder of Korea's tumultuous past.  In the distance, we were able to see the Freedom Bridge, which was built at the the end of Korean War to return the enemy's prisoners of war.

It is so difficult to put into words all the emotions that I felt during this trip.  More than anything, I was stuck by the realization that this is my history, my people, and my blood.  Up until now, I felt like a foreigner peering into a culture so distant from my own.  While this still remains true, I am beginning to feel connected the land of my ancestors.  Over 60 years ago, three of my four grandparents abruptly left their lives in North Korea and found their way south before the outbreak of the war.  In this way, my decision to come to Korea represents a full circle my family.  Above all, it's a reminder of the bountiful rewards that emerge from generations of hard work and sacrifice.

After an emotional afternoon at the DMZ, we headed back to Seoul to visit the residence of Kathleen Stevens, the U.S. Ambassador to South Korea.  There, we had the rare opportunity to discuss foreign affairs with top ranking Embassy Officials over a wide array of American barbeque favorites.  Burgers and politics, what more could a girl ask for?!  We weren't able to stay very long but it was such an honor to visit this historic home and be in the presence of such pivotal global figures. 

The rest of the weekend was filled with cultural sites, international cuisine, late-night clubbing, market-style shopping, street food, and good old-fashioned bonding with friends.  Below you can see the juxtaposition between urban city life and tranquil oasis near Cheonggyecheon, my excitement to be eating an authentic chicken and avocado Mexican burrito, and a group of us before a night on the town.

Now for the historic/cultural stuff.  On Sunday, I spent most of the day walking around the Jongno-gu district of Seoul, where the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul are located.  Built by the Joseon Dynasty in the late 14th Century, these palaces have been impeccably restored.  Due to time contraints, I was not able to see all of them.  But more the reason, to return to Seoul soon!  Afterwards, I visited Jongmyo, the oldest Confucian shine preserved in the world.  Listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site, Jongmyo is the ceremonial ground where descentents of the Joseon royal family still come to commemorate ancestors.  First, photos of the main palace Gyeongbokgung and then some at Jongmyo.

Probably, my favorite part of the weekend was exploring the quaint and artsy neighborhood of Insa-dong.  The streets were lined with shops selling antiques, books, paintings, and traditional costumes.  It very much reminded me of Soho in New York City.  While in Insa-dong, I went to a traditional tea house and drank orchid green tea to wash down a delicate sliver of cake.  I could've spent the entire day there people-watching over a caffeinated bevarage and browsing the boutiques in the side alleys.  Most notable was Ssamzie-gil, a crowded four-story building that houses over 70 little shops.  After a couple hours of walking around, I found some delicious street food, including a fried twisty potato.  Finally, I felt like I discovered the heart and true culture of Seoul, rather than the touristy glitz that foreigners typically flock to.

On Monday morning, we visited Korea University for our Graduation Ceremony from the Korean Language Program.  There, each class presented a video, skit, song, or that they've been diligently working on.  As class captain, I was responsible for leading my class's project and keeping everyone in check.  I was so relieved when it was all finished and our video was well-received by our peers, our language teachers, and the KAEC staff.  The video follows a double date between Linda & Sumi (characters from our text book) and Davy Jones (from Pirates of the Carribean and a favorite of our teacher) & Charlie Sheen (played by a student called Charlie Sshee [Mister in Korean]).  It's certainly not going to win an Oscar anytime soon, but at least it's entertaining and shows great effort on our part.

Then we were called on stage to receive our diplomas.  Bound in a beautiful red velvet case, it looked so official!  After that, they called out awards for the highest scoring student in each class and two awards for Best Effort.  To my surprise, I won the award for top scoring student in my class.  Mama Kim is so proud of me.^^  I received another certificate, a business card holder from Korea University, and 100,000!  I knew I was doing well in class, but I surely was not expecting to win this award.  After the ceremony, we left Korea University and headed to the Fulbright building in Seoul to review our Fulbright contracts with Mrs. Shim.  After a pizza dinner, we got back on the bus and headed back to Jungwon University for our final three days together.  Here's a photo of my class, diploma, certificate, and report card.

So here are some things I learned over the weekend: 1) Seoul is awesome and I need to go back soon, 2) Hard work pays off and I can't wait to continue my language studies in Daejeon, 3) It's going to be so difficult to say goodbye to these people.  Last few days, time to make the most of them. :D