Along the way, a tour guide bombarded us with facts about Korean history and we stopped at several lesser known war memorials. Due to the obscenely early morning start, many of us (myself included) were dozing off and couldn't fully appreciate the historical and cultural importance of these sites. But we found our own source of amusement in taking funny photos and perked up once we arrived at a bulgogi restaurant for lunch.
Following lunch, we arrived at the UN Joint Security Area (JSA), where were briefed about the DMZ and subjected to an incredibly thorough security check. After being informed about how we should dress, behave, gesture, and focus our vision, we eventually received our passes to enter the DMZ. At that point, we left behind all of our belongings and boarded another bus that would transport us to the actual line of demarcation. For the entirety of the bus ride, I felt an immense amount of tension. The tour guide cautiously warned us that the fields surrounding the road were filled with live land mines and guarded by snipers stationed at every angle.
Three kilometers later, we arrived at the United Nations JSA Headquarters, perhaps the most dangerous place on earth. There, we had an open view of the mere 2 kilometers that separate a once united country. Guarded heavily by soldiers from both sides, the blue buildings in the middle are neutral spaces where South and North Korean officials can discuss diplomatic issues (in an ideal world). Here are some photos of my UN pass, the DMZ, and an American soldier (of Korean descent) who serves as a security guard for tour groups.
In addition, we went to the site where the train between South and North Korea was discontinued and saw hopeful messages for reunification. I found it rather disheartening that alongside these peace words was a barbed wire fence, serving an ominous reminder of Korea's tumultuous past. In the distance, we were able to see the Freedom Bridge, which was built at the the end of Korean War to return the enemy's prisoners of war.
It is so difficult to put into words all the emotions that I felt during this trip. More than anything, I was stuck by the realization that this is my history, my people, and my blood. Up until now, I felt like a foreigner peering into a culture so distant from my own. While this still remains true, I am beginning to feel connected the land of my ancestors. Over 60 years ago, three of my four grandparents abruptly left their lives in North Korea and found their way south before the outbreak of the war. In this way, my decision to come to Korea represents a full circle my family. Above all, it's a reminder of the bountiful rewards that emerge from generations of hard work and sacrifice.
After an emotional afternoon at the DMZ, we headed back to Seoul to visit the residence of Kathleen Stevens, the U.S. Ambassador to South Korea. There, we had the rare opportunity to discuss foreign affairs with top ranking Embassy Officials over a wide array of American barbeque favorites. Burgers and politics, what more could a girl ask for?! We weren't able to stay very long but it was such an honor to visit this historic home and be in the presence of such pivotal global figures.
The rest of the weekend was filled with cultural sites, international cuisine, late-night clubbing, market-style shopping, street food, and good old-fashioned bonding with friends. Below you can see the juxtaposition between urban city life and tranquil oasis near Cheonggyecheon, my excitement to be eating an authentic chicken and avocado Mexican burrito, and a group of us before a night on the town.
Now for the historic/cultural stuff. On Sunday, I spent most of the day walking around the Jongno-gu district of Seoul, where the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul are located. Built by the Joseon Dynasty in the late 14th Century, these palaces have been impeccably restored. Due to time contraints, I was not able to see all of them. But more the reason, to return to Seoul soon! Afterwards, I visited Jongmyo, the oldest Confucian shine preserved in the world. Listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site, Jongmyo is the ceremonial ground where descentents of the Joseon royal family still come to commemorate ancestors. First, photos of the main palace Gyeongbokgung and then some at Jongmyo.
Probably, my favorite part of the weekend was exploring the quaint and artsy neighborhood of Insa-dong. The streets were lined with shops selling antiques, books, paintings, and traditional costumes. It very much reminded me of Soho in New York City. While in Insa-dong, I went to a traditional tea house and drank orchid green tea to wash down a delicate sliver of cake. I could've spent the entire day there people-watching over a caffeinated bevarage and browsing the boutiques in the side alleys. Most notable was Ssamzie-gil, a crowded four-story building that houses over 70 little shops. After a couple hours of walking around, I found some delicious street food, including a fried twisty potato. Finally, I felt like I discovered the heart and true culture of Seoul, rather than the touristy glitz that foreigners typically flock to.
Then we were called on stage to receive our diplomas. Bound in a beautiful red velvet case, it looked so official! After that, they called out awards for the highest scoring student in each class and two awards for Best Effort. To my surprise, I won the award for top scoring student in my class. Mama Kim is so proud of me.^^ I received another certificate, a business card holder from Korea University, and ₩100,000! I knew I was doing well in class, but I surely was not expecting to win this award. After the ceremony, we left Korea University and headed to the Fulbright building in Seoul to review our Fulbright contracts with Mrs. Shim. After a pizza dinner, we got back on the bus and headed back to Jungwon University for our final three days together. Here's a photo of my class, diploma, certificate, and report card.
So here are some things I learned over the weekend: 1) Seoul is awesome and I need to go back soon, 2) Hard work pays off and I can't wait to continue my language studies in Daejeon, 3) It's going to be so difficult to say goodbye to these people. Last few days, time to make the most of them. :D
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