Spring has Sprung

So this is an exciting time of year. The weather is reliably in the 70s every day, and there's just a lot of stuff going on. It seems that every week, there's something for me to look forward to.  It's crazy to think that I only have a few more months left in Korea, so I'm trying to make every day count.

Springtime in Korea is absolutely gorgeous. For about two weeks in mid-April, the entire country comes alive in a blanket of pink cherry blossoms. Other flowering trees are equally beautiful but cherry blossoms get all the attention here. After those bitter winter months, there's nothing better than soaking in the sunshine and frolicking outdoors. Here are some photos of us hanging out around Yonsei University's campus.

On the weekend of April 14-15th, I headed up to the capital city and spent some time at the Yeouido Spring Flower Festival. Yeouido is the large island located in the Han River, which intersects Seoul horizontally. We went to the Han River Public Park and walked along the water. There were a ton of families out there, having picnics, flying kites, and just enjoying the scenery.

While the view of the Han River was amazing as always, I was surprised by the scarcity of cherry blossoms. Eventually we just turned around and started heading back towards the city. A few blocks away from the river, we finally ran into all the famous cherry blossom trees. My guess is that the chilly breeze delayed the synchronized blooming down by the river. It must be hard to try to predict the precise blooming date and plan the festival accordingly. But I'm glad that I got to see some of them. The blossoms were so lovely and delicate, almost reminiscent of cotton candy. Unsurprisingly, there were hordes of Korean couples and families battling each other for prime photo background location.

Timing is so important when it comes to cherry blossoms. Their optimum blooming period lasts a matter of a few days, and that's assuming that it isn't too windy or rainy outside. If you don't catch it just right, it will remain a mere fleeting thought in your mind, but never realized. That can serve as a pretty accurate metaphor for my grant year. I know that if I become complacent and sit at home every weekend, I'll miss out on so many amazing opportunities and experiences. My time is limited so I got to take advantage of the time that I do have here.

After taking our obligatory photo in front of the cherry blossom trees, we walked back to civilization to find somewhere to eat for dinner. Being that it was the 14th of the month, we decided to take the festive route. In Korea, there is a corresponding romantic holiday on every 14th of each month. Naturally, February 14th is Valentine's Day, a day when girls present their boyfriends with chocolate. A month later on March 14th, boys return the favor and give their girlfriends candy. Click this link to read about the other holidays: http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_6.jsp?cid=261410

But for single folks, April 14th is a rather depressing day. Fittingly it's called Black Day and on this day, lonely people eat 짜장면 (jjajangmyeon) - a modified Chinese dish of wheat noodles drenched in black soybean paste. I've been told that it's known as Black Day because that is the color of one's heart if they don't have a significant other. Awww so sad! Anyway, we capitalized on the holiday spirit and gorged ourselves at a Chinese restaurant. Who needs to be sad when you can eat delicious 짜장면 and 탕수육 (tangsuyuk), a Koreanized version of sweet and sour pork?!

The following weekend, Aaron and I went on an all-expenses paid day-trip to Jeonju, the capital of the North Jeolla province and the former capital of the Hubaekje Kingdom. The trip was sponsored by the Daejeon Ministry of Education and offered to any foreign teacher currently residing in Daejeon. In total, there were 25 people on the trip, but Aaron and I were the only Fulbrighters there.

On Saturday, April 21st, we had an early start. We were informed to meet at 9:15 am to board a charter bus. Unfortunately, it was raining super hard that morning. When I woke up to the sound of torrential downpour beating on my window, I was so tempted to just sleep in and cancel my spot. But in the end, I sucked it up and reminded myself that this was an opportunity to visit a new city in Korea. Despite the awful weather, it turned out to be a fun day.

 

Located 95 kilometers southwest of Daejeon, Jeonju is rich with tradition and regarded as one of the most culturally significant cities in Korea. Most notable is the city's Hanok Village, a quaint neighborhood consisting of 800 traditional Korean-style homes. From there, we moved on to Pungnammun Gate, the only surviving gate from the original city wall, which was built in the late 14th century. Next, we stopped quickly outside the Jeondong Cathedral, a stunning Byzantine/Romanesque building that is one of the oldest Western buildings in the Honam region.

After walking around the city for a few hours, we finally settled down for lunch. I got a chance to dry off my drenched socks and shoes, and finally try the world-famous 비빔밥 (bibimbap) that I'd heard so much about. Originating from Jeonju, bibimbap is one of Korea's signature dishes and consists of rice, meat, many kinds of fresh vegetables, and chili pepper paste. Immediately prior to eating, one thoroughly mixes all the ingredients together. It's a perfectly balanced and tasty meal. The Jeonju bibimbap was surely delicious but I don't think that it was noticeably superior to bibimbap that I've eaten elsewhere. Ssshhhh, don't tell native Koreans that I said that! They are very protective of regional pride.

After lunch, we entered one of the Hanok houses to try on traditional Korean clothing called hanbok. Made entirely of silk, the hanbok's design is centered on “flatness”. While most western clothing has many seams which make them appear 3D (rounded sleeves etc.), the hanbok has only a few seams so it looks completely flat when it is hung or laid down. This is the art of the hanbok. When you raise your arms up from your sides, the cloth hangs very straight and flat. They come in beautiful, vibrant colors and are exquisitely made by hand.

A women’s hanbok consists of a long skirt that is tied right under the armpits, and then a small jacket that is buttoned in the front. The ribbon on the front of a woman’s hanbok is the most important part of the costume, and must be tied and folded exactly right at all times. While they look loose and oversized, the fit of the hanbok is certainly not intended for some body shapes. The women working at the Hanok house looked horrified when she saw all the large chested foreigners, whose assets would interfere with the hanbok's flatness. Needless to say, she breathed a sigh of relief when she saw Korean-sized me.

The whole group!

After everyone put their hanbok on, we took tons of photos together. My friend Aaron was dressed in a special government scholar's hanbok, which came with a rather distinguished looking hat. Then we watched some demonstrations on traditional bowing technique.

All in all, it was a really great day. It was fun to explore a new city and learn more about traditional Korean architecture, food, and attire. Even though it rained the whole day and my feet were soaking wet, it was an enjoyable experience. I really want to go back to Jeonju and explore the downtown area a bit more. It's a perfect blend of Western and Eastern culture. The city breathes a sense of history and tradition, and with every step you take there, it feels as if you're walking both forwards and backwards in time.