The Heart and Seoul of Korea

For our final weekend together, we headed to Seoul for a celebration of sorts: a celebration in honor of  completing Orientation, our newly acquired friendships, and the a of adventures to come.  On Friday, July 12th, we woke-up at the crack of dawn, stumbled onto a bus, and left Goesan by 5:00am.  Two hours later, we arrived at our hotel in the Mapo-gu district of Seoul and dropped off our luggage.  From there, we hopped on a different bus and began driving to the actual border between South and North Korea - The Demilitarized Zone (An ironic name for possibly the most militarized place in the world).

Along the way, a tour guide bombarded us with facts about Korean history and we stopped at several lesser known war memorials.  Due to the obscenely early morning start, many of us (myself included) were dozing off and couldn't fully appreciate the historical and cultural importance of these sites.  But we found our own source of amusement in taking funny photos and perked up once we arrived at a bulgogi restaurant for lunch.

Following lunch, we arrived at the UN Joint Security Area (JSA), where were briefed about the DMZ and subjected to an incredibly thorough security check.  After being informed about how we should dress, behave, gesture, and focus our vision, we eventually received our passes to enter the DMZ.  At that point, we left behind all of our belongings and boarded another bus that would transport us to the actual line of demarcation.  For the entirety of the bus ride, I felt an immense amount of tension.  The tour guide cautiously warned us that the fields surrounding the road were filled with live land mines and guarded by snipers stationed at every angle.

Three kilometers later, we arrived at the United Nations JSA Headquarters, perhaps the most dangerous place on earth.  There, we had an open view of the mere 2 kilometers that separate a once united country.  Guarded heavily by soldiers from both sides, the blue buildings in the middle are neutral spaces where South and North Korean officials can discuss diplomatic issues (in an ideal world).  Here are some photos of my UN pass, the DMZ, and an American soldier (of Korean descent) who serves as a security guard for tour groups.

In addition, we went to the site where the train between South and North Korea was discontinued and saw hopeful messages for reunification.  I found it rather disheartening that alongside these peace words was a barbed wire fence, serving an ominous reminder of Korea's tumultuous past.  In the distance, we were able to see the Freedom Bridge, which was built at the the end of Korean War to return the enemy's prisoners of war.

It is so difficult to put into words all the emotions that I felt during this trip.  More than anything, I was stuck by the realization that this is my history, my people, and my blood.  Up until now, I felt like a foreigner peering into a culture so distant from my own.  While this still remains true, I am beginning to feel connected the land of my ancestors.  Over 60 years ago, three of my four grandparents abruptly left their lives in North Korea and found their way south before the outbreak of the war.  In this way, my decision to come to Korea represents a full circle my family.  Above all, it's a reminder of the bountiful rewards that emerge from generations of hard work and sacrifice.

After an emotional afternoon at the DMZ, we headed back to Seoul to visit the residence of Kathleen Stevens, the U.S. Ambassador to South Korea.  There, we had the rare opportunity to discuss foreign affairs with top ranking Embassy Officials over a wide array of American barbeque favorites.  Burgers and politics, what more could a girl ask for?!  We weren't able to stay very long but it was such an honor to visit this historic home and be in the presence of such pivotal global figures. 

The rest of the weekend was filled with cultural sites, international cuisine, late-night clubbing, market-style shopping, street food, and good old-fashioned bonding with friends.  Below you can see the juxtaposition between urban city life and tranquil oasis near Cheonggyecheon, my excitement to be eating an authentic chicken and avocado Mexican burrito, and a group of us before a night on the town.

Now for the historic/cultural stuff.  On Sunday, I spent most of the day walking around the Jongno-gu district of Seoul, where the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul are located.  Built by the Joseon Dynasty in the late 14th Century, these palaces have been impeccably restored.  Due to time contraints, I was not able to see all of them.  But more the reason, to return to Seoul soon!  Afterwards, I visited Jongmyo, the oldest Confucian shine preserved in the world.  Listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site, Jongmyo is the ceremonial ground where descentents of the Joseon royal family still come to commemorate ancestors.  First, photos of the main palace Gyeongbokgung and then some at Jongmyo.

Probably, my favorite part of the weekend was exploring the quaint and artsy neighborhood of Insa-dong.  The streets were lined with shops selling antiques, books, paintings, and traditional costumes.  It very much reminded me of Soho in New York City.  While in Insa-dong, I went to a traditional tea house and drank orchid green tea to wash down a delicate sliver of cake.  I could've spent the entire day there people-watching over a caffeinated bevarage and browsing the boutiques in the side alleys.  Most notable was Ssamzie-gil, a crowded four-story building that houses over 70 little shops.  After a couple hours of walking around, I found some delicious street food, including a fried twisty potato.  Finally, I felt like I discovered the heart and true culture of Seoul, rather than the touristy glitz that foreigners typically flock to.

 

On Monday morning, we visited Korea University for our Graduation Ceremony from the Korean Language Program.  There, each class presented a video, skit, song, or that they've been diligently working on.  As class captain, I was responsible for leading my class's project and keeping everyone in check.  I was so relieved when it was all finished and our video was well-received by our peers, our language teachers, and the KAEC staff.  The video follows a double date between Linda & Sumi (characters from our text book) and Davy Jones (from Pirates of the Carribean and a favorite of our teacher) & Charlie Sheen (played by a student called Charlie Sshee [Mister in Korean]).  It's certainly not going to win an Oscar anytime soon, but at least it's entertaining and shows great effort on our part.

Then we were called on stage to receive our diplomas.  Bound in a beautiful red velvet case, it looked so official!  After that, they called out awards for the highest scoring student in each class and two awards for Best Effort.  To my surprise, I won the award for top scoring student in my class.  Mama Kim is so proud of me.^^  I received another certificate, a business card holder from Korea University, and ₩100,000!  I knew I was doing well in class, but I surely was not expecting to win this award.  After the ceremony, we left Korea University and headed to the Fulbright building in Seoul to review our Fulbright contracts with Mrs. Shim.  After a pizza dinner, we got back on the bus and headed back to Jungwon University for our final three days together.  Here's a photo of my class, diploma, certificate, and report card.

So here are some things I learned over the weekend: 1) Seoul is awesome and I need to go back soon, 2) Hard work pays off and I can't wait to continue my language studies in Daejeon, 3) It's going to be so difficult to say goodbye to these people.  Last few days, time to make the most of them. :D

Cultural Adventures!

So this past week has been filled with exciting new cultural experiences.  On Thursday, August 4th, I participated in a traditional Korean tea ceremony.  Instructors, dressed in beautiful hanboks, taught us how to prepare green tea and serve it properly.  It was quite the procedure, but every gesture has relevance and an underlying purpose.  Aside from the fact that my feet fell asleep from sitting crossed-legged too long, I really enjoyed learning about the subtle nuances of Korean culture.  It also made me reminiscent of Smith's tradition of weekly Sunday afternoon teas.  Drinking tea is such a wonderful way to wind down with close friends.  Even though wasn't my usual combo of peppermint and Earl Grey, this is definitely something that I can get used to.

 

On Saturday afternoon, I headed to a 3-hour archery class.  The range was within walking distance of Jungwon University and it's used as a training site for the Korean National Olympic Team.  I still don't understand why they choose to train in the middle-of-nowhere Goesan, but I suppose it limits distractions.  Anyway, it was such a fun afternoon.  Following a brief lesson, we took turns shooting arrows at targets.  Nearly all of my arrows hit the target and I even got a couple bull's eyes!  Afterwards, we watched a demonstration by four archery masters, who used traditional bows made of entirely natural materials.  They were aiming at a targets over 150 meters away, so far that we couldn't even see the targets; but a light would go off to indicate a successful hit.  It was one of the most impressive things I have ever seen. 

On Monday, I took the yellow belt test for Taekwondo.  For the test, we had to perform a form pattern, demonstrate mastery of 4 kinds of kicks, and then break a board.  Our instructor is a 5th degree black belt, the son of an 8th degree black belt, and a total bad ass.  We were really lucky to learn from such a highly qualified instructor.  Here's me beating up the Taekwondo master and my brand new yellow belt!

This week also marked the end of Korean language classes.  On Wednesday, I had a 4 hour final exam - 1 hour of reading comprehension, 1 hour of writing, 1 hour for partner speaking role-play, and 1 hour for a one-on-one interview with the teacher.  Studying for it was brutal, to say the least.  But it was rewarding look back and realize how much Korean I've learned in the past six weeks.  The language classes were, at times, quite challenging and demanding.  However, my 2 teachers 이선생님 (male) and 류선생님 (female) were incredibly giving and patient throughout the entire process. 

Today was the last day of class and it was definitely more emotional than I anticipated it would be.  We spent the class time taking photos, singing a Korean song, and learning some K-pop dance steps from our male teacher (who is a bona fide B-Boy^^).  As a token of our appreciation, our class took them out to dinner earlier in the week and presented them with a photo scrapbook to remember us by.  The teachers were evidently touched by our gift and the guy teacher had to excuse himself from the room when things got too sad.  I will really miss seeing their smiling faces every morning.  Fortunately, we got their contact info and may meet up this weekend in Seoul!

 

Speaking of which, I'm leaving for Seoul in less than 4 hours.  The entire Fulbright class is heading to the nation's capital on the KAEC's dime for 4 days.  On Friday, we'll be visiting the DMZ and attending a barbeque/pool party at the residence of the U.S. Ambassador to Korea.  Saturday and Sunday will be free days for us to explore the city.  And on Monday, we will graduate from the language program, visit Korea University and the Fulbright Building in Seoul, and return home in the evening.  This weekend is, in many ways, our last hoorah.  In exactly a week from today, we'll be leaving Orientation and parting ways for our respective placements.  It is somewhat sad to think that our days are limited.  But I'm so pumped for this weekend and hope that it'll be one to remember.

Where I've Been and Where I'm Going

So this time last month, I arrived in a foreign land, feeling incredibly apprehensive and uneasy about the upcoming year.  I left behind a cushy routine in exchange for uncertain circumstances outside my control and comfort zone.  One month in, I can't say that I'm an expert in Korean culture or language.  But I feel that I've regained a sense of direction and clarity amidst these strange surroundings.  No longer do I feel overwhelmed by the daunting duties that await me or the vast unknowns that I have yet to explore.  More and more each day, I feel confident that I can steer my life in the direction of my choosing.  I can only imagine what these next 11 months have in store for me.  But I'm ready to take on whatever challenges come my way.  아자아자 (Fighting! I can do it!)

More about where I'm going.  So as you regular followers know, last Thursday I received my placement for the year.  Since then, I've learned quite about about my future stomping ground.  I will be teaching at Daejeon Dunsan Girls' High School, which is located in the heart of the metropolitan city.  With 1700+ students, the school is extremely large by Korean standards.  However, I will only be teaching 300-500 of them a semester, so there's a good chance that I'll be able to remember all my students names (at least, I hope so).  According to the school website, Dunsan was named one of the top three high schools in Daejeon for 2010 and has a mentoring program with KAIST University, a.k.a. the M.I.T. of Korea.

Since the classes are separated into distinct levels, I'll be able to create lessons to meet the students' ability level and interests.  But of course, that means that lesson planning will consume much of my time, as I may not be able to reuse lessons for different classes.  Unlike most of my friends, I have a wealth of information about my school, as Dara (fellow Smithie and ETA) lived in Daejeon and some of my peers went to my school during the second week of Orientation for a site visit.  I have heard nothing but positive things about my placement.  According to Dara, my school is in an awesome neighborhood and according to my peers, the co-teachers are helpful, the students are sweet, and there's an English Cafe, where students can spend cafe dollars that they earned for good behavior.  Needless to say, I don't think I could've asked for a better placement.  Here's a photo of my school!

Home to many research institutes and science universities, Daejeon is known as the Silicon Valley of Korea.  It also is the center of transportation, where the main expressways and railways conjoin.  Riding on the KTX bullet train, I can be in Seoul in 55 minutes and there is no where in mainland Korea that I can't reach in two hours.  Simply, the location cannot be beat!  Perhaps the only thing more exciting about my placement, other than the geographical location, are the people that I'll be spending the year with.  Aside from myself, there are 4 other baby Fulbrights placed in Daejeon, some of whom are my closest friends here.  In addition, there are 6 renewees (people who decided to stay in Korea for a second year) in my city.  The fact that all these veterans chose Daejeon as their home, speaks wonders the awesomeness this city.  Take a look at this map of the KTX lines.  You can visibly see that Daejeon is the most interconnected city in Korea.

 

Slowly but surely, Orientation is coming to an end.  In exactly 15 days, I will be packing up my bags and leaving for Daejeon.  I can't wait until stressful language classes are over and I'm able to get a routine going in my new city.  But it's going to be tough to leave all the amazing people that I've come to know during Orientation.  It's such blessing to be surrounded by 86 other Americans who share many of the same interests and passions that I do.  It has surely made my adjustment to Korea much easier.  However, the real test will come when we are distributed amongst our respective cities and we can no longer rely on each other to get by.

Up until now, our actions have been carefully calculated and watched by the Orientation team.  Yet in two weeks, we will go out on our own, like little birds that leave the nest for the first time.  The purpose of this brutal Orientation program is to set us up for success and ensure that our untried wings will carry us through.  At this point, it's tough to swallow the fact that our days as a unified group are limited.  But as they say, birds of a feather flock together, and distance can hardly stand in the way of lasting friendships.

A Teaching Machine and Pageant Queens

On Thursday, July 28th, I taught my third and final lesson for Camp Fulbright.  This time, we had to team-teach with one of our peers.  I really lucked out having Meredith as my teaching partner.  We have similar classroom personas and worked seamlessly together.  Perhaps the most challenging aspect of the third lesson was the level of our students.  Having come from the Low Advanced class, we found it difficult to suddenly adjust to the Low Beginner class, the absolute lowest level in the camp.  With the former, we were able to get away with speaking quickly, breezing over complex ideas, and relying on current events to inform our lessons.  However, we knew that this time, we'd have to simplify our extensive vocabulary and speak at a painfully slow rate.  Nonetheless, we accepted the challenge and created a lesson plan about extrovert/introvert personalities.

In line with our daily theme of World Heroes, here was the takeaway message for the day: Regardless of your personality or interests, you too can achieve international acclaim and popularity.  Kinda cheesy, but when supplemented with fun games and activities, it was an overall success.  We received overwhelmingly positive feedback from our Camp Instructor and peer evaluators.  One comment was particularly noteworthy.  In response to my vigorous efforts to get my team pumped up about the game, one peer evaluator wrote, "Note to self: Don't get into a competition with Danielle - She is INTENSE!"  Of course, I've never been accused of half-assing anything.  If there's any sort of competition involved, you better believe that my team is going to win. ^^

Saturday, July 30th marked the end of Camp Fulbright.  In the morning, we helped out with the Closing Ceremony.  It was kind of a bittersweet moment.  On one hand, I was felt relieved that the chaotic 2 weeks were over and I could give due attention to my language classes.  On the other, I met so many sweet Korean students and really enjoyed this opportunity to practice teaching.  More than anything, this experience instilled in me the desire to begin the grant year with purpose and commitment.  Here's a photo of me with a little girl who ran up to me during the Closing Ceremony.  I took her to get some juice and she reciprocated by calling me 친구 (friend).  Secretly, I wanted to steal her and take her home with me.  But alas, I'm sure that kidnapping (or the prolonged borrowing of cute children) violates my contract.

Immediately after the Closing Ceremony, I packed my bags and hopped on the bus for GLEE Club Membership Training (MT).  So in Korea, organizations and clubs regularly go on MT retreats for bonding and recreational purposes, quite a novel idea when you think about it.  More accurately, they are an opportunity for club members to have fun, play games, eat lots of barbecued meat, engage in harmless debauchery, and then try to squeeze as many people as possible into one room to sleep.   Our MT location was 30 minutes away from Jungwon University and next to a fast-moving lake.  Despite being in the middle of nowhere, I had such a great time hanging out with this entertaining group of Americans and Koreans.

Without question, the highlight of the MT trip was the 5th Annual Miss GLEE pageant.  Prior to the trip, girls were informed that they should bring pageant wear and makeup for this event.  Little did we know that it'd be the BOYS who'd be the contestants!  We voted on three American boys and three Korean boys to compete in the pageant.  Then, the rest of us split into teams to help beautify the boys for their debut.

I immediately jumped at the chance to be a pageant coach for YB, a slender, mild-mannered Jungwon student.  First, I knew that he'd fit into our dresses and second, he totally pulls off the androgynous Korean pop star look.  Initally, he was super shy but after a while, he totally got into it!  The guys helped him with his personal introduction, Meredith did his hair and makeup, and I, the pageant veteran, coached him on walking and posing.  The pageant was absolutely hilarious!  I took a ton of photos but most came out blurry, as I was laughing so hard.  In the end, YB won hands-down!  I felt like such a proud pageant mom!

One more look - seriously, he's prettier than I am!

All in all, it was a great way to end Week 4.  Now that Camp Fulbright is over, one would expect that I'd have more free time.  But I'm sure they'll find some way to keep us busy.  That's it for now.  Time to catch up on some much needed sleep. ［(－－)］ZZzzz...